|
Trip Duration - 13 Days
Grade - Moderate-easy
|
|
|
We specialize in arranging trips precisely designed to meet your particular wishes, focusing on special interest groups for trekking in the regions of great natural beauty!
Season: April 2009
A true taste of adventure and exploration in this trekking we combine exploring the valley's villages and monasteries with a 3-day ridge traverse along a mountain path dividing the Haa and Paro Valleys. Our route weaves its way through high mountain yak pastures and small rural villages with views toward Bhutan's Eastern Himalayan ranges. The trek is combined with time in Paro at the vibrant festival and Thimphu to appreciate Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage.
The Paro Tshechu is the biggest and most spectacular of the Buddhist festivals faithfully celebrated in Bhutan. People flock to bear witness to their Buddhist faith, dressed in traditional finery. They receive blessings and watch masked dances and colorful symbolic dramas performed in the courtyard of the Paro Dzong. A deeply religious country, Buddhism was first introduced to Bhutan around AD 800 by the revered Guru Padma Sambhava, "he who was born of a lotus flower", and it is in his honor that the festival is held.
It consists of three parts: the "Pre-festival" on the first day, ceremonies inside the Paro Dzong on the second day, and the main festivities on the festival ground on the remaining three days. For the devout, the highlight undoubtedly occurs on the final day when a huge religious picture (thongdrel) is unfurled at dawn. To witness this event is to gain great merit.
Both monks and lay people perform in the festival dances and dramas as an act of meditation, seeking to personify the deity that they portray. Masked and dressed in elaborate costumes of silk brocade, dancers demonstrate the triumph of good over evil and the power of compassion to the haunting sounds of trumpets, cymbals and flutes. Dances are interspersed with folksongs.
Each dance is said to be an exact re-enactment of visions seen by Bhutan's great Buddhist saints, and thus any changes would be sacrilegious. Today this beautiful and sacred festival remains a wonderful presentation of a religious faith that is still a crucial part of Bhutanese daily life.
Why travel with Namgay Adventure Travels?
When planning travel to a remote and challenging destination, many factors need to be considered. Our extra attention to detail and careful operations on the ground ensure that you will have a memorable holiday experience. All parties are accompanied by a trained guide, a cook and trek crew. Horses and yaks carry all provisions and most belongings; trekkers rarely have to carry more than a daypack with camera and extra film.
The support crew walks ahead of the trekking party each day and pitch camp before the trekkers arrive. A warm cup of tea waiting in the dining tent is the most welcome treat after hours of walking up and down mountains. All meals are carefully planned. Breakfast is always cooked and dinner includes a choice of at least four dishes. In many of the remote parts of the country, villages are scarce and few people cross paths and as a result Namgay Adventure Travels takes every precaution to ensure the safety and comfort of the trekkers.
Trip Highlights
• Explore holy sites accessible only on foot.
• Meet Bhutanese families in their beautiful homes.
• Visit fortress-monasteries that are masterpieces of Bhutan's unique architecture.
• Hike to the famous cliff hermitage of the Tiger's Nest.
• Full-service camping with top quality tents and sleeping pads.
• The biggest annual festival in Bhutan.
Haa Trek and Paro Festival Trip Cost: US $ 220 pp/day
Your trip cost includes:
1. All Meals & Accommodation on twin sharing basis.
2. All airport transfers.
3. Guides.
4. Sleeping mat.
5. Camping equipment.
6. Permits and National Park entry fees and Monument Fees.
7. Private vehicle transport.
8. Porters/horses/yaks.
Your trip cost does not include:
1. International flights, Druk Air and departure transfer.
2. Bottled water.
3. Alcoholic drinks.
4. Items of a personal nature such as phone calls, laundry, etc...
5. Tips.
6. Airport and departure taxes.
7. Visa.
8. Travel Insurance.
9. Accommodation: & Main meals: Superior Hotels Uma, Zhiwaling and Taj & Aman.
Single Supplement: US $ 390 for the entire trip. Trips are based on double occupancy rooms/ tents.
Day 1- April 01, 2009: Arrival Paro and drive to Thimphu
Paro: Altitude: 2280m/ 7524ft.
The flight into Paro brings breathtaking views of the Himalayan Mountains. The landing in Paro valley between 4000m high mountains starts your day in an unforgettable way!
After clearing customs and immigration you will meet your representative from Namgay Adventure Travels for your 1.5 hour drive to Thimphu, the Capital City.
Accommodation: Hotel Druk.
Day 2- April 02, 2009: In the Capital City.
Sightseeing in Thimphu includes a visit to the Bhutan Heritage Museum. This wonderful museum, which officially opened in July of 2001, provides an opportunity to step inside a typical Bhutanese household and experience first hand the intimacy of daily life in Bhutan. It features utensils used in farming to those used in cooking, religious ritual and everyday life.
Visit the new Textile Museum. Cultures around the world have developed ways of producing cloth, and Bhutan’s textiles are unique for their diversity and sophistication. The Textile Museum explores this dynamic craft. The ground floor introduces the skills of spinning and coloring fibers, preparing a loom, and the everyday uses of textiles for such things as clothing, ceremony, blankets and other utilitarian functions. The upper floor illustrates the diversity of Bhutan’s textile arts, and contains special exhibits featuring regional garments, as well as masterpieces produced by local weavers.
• The handmade paper factory.
• Memorial Chorten.
• Thimphu Zoo to view the Takin.
• The Archery grounds (where you might catch an archery match).
• The Indigenous Hospital (which dispenses traditional Tibetan medicine).
Accommodation: Hotel Druk.
Day 3 – April 03, 2009: Thimphu to Punakha country side.
Driving Distance: 77 kms
Driving Time: 3 hours
Altitude: 1350 m
Punakha is in Western Bhutan
3 hours drive to Punakha via Dochula pass (3050m) through magnificent forest of rhododendron and magnolia. From the pass, weather allowing, you have panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayan peaks, among them Mt. Masagang (7158m) and our highest peak, Mt. Gangkar Puensum. Passing the magnificent group of 109 Chortens (stupas) at Dochula, the Druk Wangyel (or Great Victory) Chortens, the road curls its way down into the relative lowlands of the Punakha Valley. Before Thimphu was made the permanent capital of Bhutan, Punakha was the Winter Capital for 300 years because of its more temperate climate. The Je Khenpo (leader of Bhutan's religious order) and his council of monks still come to pass the winter months here.
Punakha Dzong, or Punthang Dechen Phodrang, was strategically built at the confluence, the river island between the mighty Phochu and Mochu Rivers in Punakha. While the rivers provided natural defense against invaders, it did not obstruct the view of the Dzong. The imposing structure, the biggest and the most magnificent of its kind at that particular point in time, was visible from all four sides. The construction of Punakha Dzong on the strategic location was completed in 1637 AD and it represented the supreme flowering Bhutanese art and architecture.
Accommodation: Hotel Meri Puensum.
Day 4 – April 04, 2009: Hike to Chorten Nebu Monastery & School.
40 minutes shuttle to Kabjisa trail head, and 3 hours hike uphill will reach you to Chorten Nebu Monastic School. It is a beautiful walk to a lovely village surrounded by orange groves to a temple, which dates back to the time of 'The Divine Madman' Drukpa Kunley. According to legend, the area around Chorten Nebu was once a dense forest where evil sprits dwelt. One day the revered Drukpa Kinley, the Divine Madman, arrived here when all the demons were gathered together in conclave. He hurled a blazing log into the gathering and all the evil sprits were scorched to death. The great oak tree is said to have grown out of the blazing log that Drukpa Kinley threw and, intriguingly, its bark is still a dark, burnt brown. This tree is much venerated by people who live in the villages around. Hike back on a different trail through rice fields to the road head.
Accommodation: Hotel Meri Puensum.
Day 5 – April 05, 2009: Punakha to Paro.
Driving Distance: 136 kms
Driving Time: 4 hours
En route to Paro visit Chime Lhakhang a beautiful fertility monastery and learn about the famous saint known as Drukpa Kinley the "Divine Madman" who remains one of the best loved saints in Bhutan.
Accommodation: Tandinling Resort.
Day 6 - April 06, 2009: Paro Festival.
Day 7 - April 07, 2009: Paro Festival
Accommodation: Tandinling Resort.
Day 8: April 08, 2009: Paro to Haa via Chele La Pass to campsite above Katsho Village.
Driving Time: 4 hours
Drive through Blue Pine and Rhododendron forest until you reach Chele-la pass (3800m) giving superb views of Mount Chomolhari and Jichu Drakey. On arrival in the picturesque Ha Valley, stroll through pretty town and begin the first part of the trek starting from Katso village (alt. 8840 ft). This is a fairly easy trek of about one hour walk through Katso village and fields. Opposite Katso village, lies the famous Katso Lhakhang (temple) of Guru Rimpoche built against the rocky ledge.
Camp: Above Katso Village in an open meadow through which runs a beautiful stream.
Camp altitude: 9472 ft.
Walking distance: 1.5 hours
Day 9: April 09, 2009: to camp below Sagala.
We begin our trek by walking gradually uphill through a blue pine forest and farmland. As we climb it gets a little steeper and we walk along streams past rhododendron, juniper, spruce, and birch trees. Lunch in a grassy meadow at about 11,200'. Continue to our camp at 11,800', about 45 minutes below Saga La (pass). Weather permitting; we’ll take an afternoon hike up to Saga La for views of sacred Jumolhari (24,000') and several other peaks. We’ll also have panoramic views of the Haa Valley.
Camp: Below Saga La
Camp altitude: 11800ft
Walking distance: 4-5 hours
Day 10: April 10, 2009: to camp Nigula.
In the morning, we hike once again up to Saga La and then follow the ridge up and down to 13,200' (we may be able to catch a glimpse of Taktsang Monastery from here). Continue steeply through dwarf rhododendron to 13,700' and down through narrow grazing paths. Camp at Ningula in a rhododendron forest from where you have a beautiful view of the peaks of Jukolhari and Jichu Drakye.
Camp: Nigula
Camp altitude: 12300ft
Walking distance: 5-6 hours
Day 11: April 11, 2009: Nigula -Paro.
Climb steeply back up to the ridge and cross the Kale La at 12,900', with its views of Paro and the Haa Valley. Weather permitting; we’ll have a great view of the Paro Dzong and surrounding peaks including Kanchenjunga (28,208'), the third highest peak in the world. Continue climbing up to Kung Karpo at 13,500', with views of the mountains and both valleys again (weather permitting). Descend and traverse toward the Chele La (13,080'). All day today, we will have clear views of the mountains and the Paro and Haa Valleys (weather permitting). Once at the Chele La, we meet our bus and drive two hours to Paro.
Accommodation: Hotel Tandinling
Walking Distance: 6-7 hours
Driving distance: 2 hours
Day 12: April 12, 2009: Hike to Taksang.
Walking distance: Approximately 4-5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate-Strenuous
Visiting Taksang in 1905, Sir John Claude White, The British Political Officer in Sikkim, wrote: “it was unquestionably the most picturesque group of buildings I had seen. Every natural feature in the landscape had been taken advantage of, and beautiful old trees…combined with the sheer precipices, made a magnificent picture.”
Taksang is one of the most respected places of pilgrimage in the Himalayan world. For people unaccustomed to the altitude it takes about three hours at an average walking speed to reach the temple. Follow an ancient path marked by river powered prayer wheels; the climb begins, up through a forest of oak and rhododendron to the Taksang tea house, a log cabin. The view over the Lhakhangs from this tea house is extraordinary, and the effort of climbing up to it is amply rewarded. The Taksang Monastery, tragically wrecked in a fire early in 1998, rebuilt, it is perched some 2950m up on a cliff overlooking the valley. The buildings cling to the black rock, overhanging the valley below by some 800m. It was said to be where the legendary Indian saint, Guru Padma Sambhava, flew from Tibet on the back of a tiger to defeat five demons, who were opposing the spread of Buddhism in Bhutan. Lunch will be served at the view point cafeteria.
We retrace our steps for the descent.
Afternoon:
Visit Kyichu Lhakhang composed of twin temples 1) the ancient temple and 2) the recent temple. The ancient temple is deeply respected for its antiquity and holds one of Bhutan’s holiest statues of the Jowo, Buddha as a prince at the age of eight, which is alike to the one in the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. The recent temple was built in 1968 and is dedicated to Guru Rimpoche.
Visit Ta Dzong, the National Museum of the Kingdom. Originally built as Watch Tower since 1967 it is the National Museum of the country and holding fascinating collection of art, artifacts, thangkha paintings and Bhutan’s exquisite postage stamps.
Day 13: April 13, 2009: Departure.
Note:
We do our best to respect the itinerary schedule as presented on this detailed itinerary but there is always the possibility that we may need to modify it for different reasons either beyond our control or to take advantage of unexpected opportunities. Remote areas are sometimes unpredictable and itineraries may be altered. To get the most out of your adventure it is important that you are flexible, positive and eager to take on all the challenges that arise.
A Typical Trekking Day
You will be woken with a cup of tea brought to your tent (around 6:30am), followed by a small bowl of warm water for washing. After a wholesome breakfast we are usually on the trail by around 7.30 - 7.45 am and walk for around 3-4 hours. Lunch is usually a 1-2 hour break to allow for the group meal followed by the staff meal. This also enables you to do your washing in the warmest part of the day and catch up on your diary or reading. The afternoon walk is generally a little shorter and camp is usually reached by around 3.30 - 4.30 pm. Once we have reached camp and the kitchen is set up, afternoon tea will be prepared (tea, coffee, hot chocolate and biscuits) and from then until dinner there is time to rest, explore the surrounding area and villages or sit and chat with staff and local people. Dinner is usually served between 6-7 pm. This period of your trekking day is a nice time to relax and enjoy your surroundings, the wilderness, mountains and people among it, group members, crew and people you have met along the way. Much of the enjoyment of an expedition is in the journey itself.
What you carry?
In your daypack you will need to carry extra warm clothing (depending on the altitude, location and
weather), a rain jacket, water bottle, film and camera gear, valuables and personal items such as sunscreen, lip-screen etc. Porters carry all group gear and your trek pack.
Equipment
In preparation for your upcoming vacation, we recommend that you review the suggested packing list.
• Boots [leather] in good condition.
• Teva or similar sandals.
• 2 pairs Coolmax inner socks.
• 4 pairs thick Socks [make these all the same and ensure they are right for boots].
• Lightweight long walking skirt [for girls].
• Lightweight walking trousers.
• Fleece trousers.
• Rain pants.
• 2 lightweight long sleeved shirts [quick dry].
• 2 wick away short sleeved t shirts[quick dry].
• 3 sets of underwear[quick drying].
• 1 set thermal underwear.
• 6 handkerchiefs.
• Large headscarf.
• Fleece jacket.
• Fleece vest.
• Very light weight windproof jacket.
• Rain jacket.
• Fleece gloves and waterproof over gloves.
• Broad brimmed sun hat.
• Bathing suit[for hotel and hot springs].
• Sleeping bag[at least 3 season].
• Liner.
• Thermarest sleeping mat.
• Pillow case of a size to take your fleece.
• Washing kit.
• Towel.
• Personal hygiene / medical kit.
• Spa 25 uva &uvb suncream.
• Platypus/camel back water bottle/s at least 2 litres (4 pints) capacity.
• Head torch and spare batteries.
• Sunglasses.
• Spare pair prescription glasses.
• Pocket knife.
• Binoculars.
• Camera.
• Notebook & penwallet that can be put on a belt or hung round your neck.
• 35 minimum and preferably 45 litre capacity day sack.
• Books.
• Passport.
• Tickets.
• Insurance certificate.
• Money in new us dollars [specify US$Mint to bank].
• List of emergency contact numbers.
• Trek details.
• Guide books.
• Repair kit.
• Kit bag : pack everything in ziplock plastic bags.
• Trekking poles.
• A set of comfortable clothes which you can leave in a spare bag at the hotel you return to after the trek.
Safeguarding the Environment
• As land farming is localized (livestock on the plateaus, crops in the valleys), the impact of human presence on the landscape remains low. We are counting on you all to leave these natural areas as clean as possible.
• Remember to pick up your trash throughout your walk and take the time to leave your own camps clean. Sort and bring the most polluting waste back to your home country (batteries, etc...) Regroup your waste and burn it.
• Prefer to boil and cool water for drinking rather than buying lots of plastic water bottles that will only increase the amount of waste.
• Wash your laundry away from water sources that serve as drinking water for people or for animals (horses, yaks, etc...).
Walking
Hours of walking, which may vary from person to person, means hours of actual walking and does not include stops for lunch, Sightseeing and rests.
On certain days our walk takes us into more rugged terrain. Please make sure that your footwear provides sufficient ankle support. If it is not possible to do a walk due to bad weather, an alternative will be rganized. Any such decision is at the discretion of the Tour Leader.
Climate
Winter has its own special moments. The days are full of sunshine while evenings can turn chilly. The winter landscape lays bare the majesty of the mountains and the sweeping valleys. Soft tufts of cloud drape lazily over mountain tops as if waiting for new life to blow it across the landscape.
Cusine
Spicy chilies mixed with a cheese sauce called ema datse is the national dish of Bhutan. The main staples of the Bhutanese diet are rice (red or white) and chilies, served with a variety of fresh vegetables. Meat, fish and poultry are also served (often as stews). Bhutanese food tends to be spicy, since many dishes are made with chilies, but the spiciness can be reduced to your liking. Tibetan dishes such as momos and noodle dishes are also popular, and you will also find Indian, Continental, and Chinese foods.
Shopping
Brightly colored and patterned hand made textiles are a specialty of the region, often made into long flowing garments of silk or cotton called kira which is the national dress of women in Bhutan. Traditional jewels, baskets, paintings and woodcarvings are also popular. Thimphu is a good place to shop and has a large weekend market.
Facilities en route
Banks: VISA, ATM, MasterCard etc does not exist in Bhutan. Only a few selected shops accept MasterCard/visa. Traveler’s cheques can be enchased at the banks in Thimphu, Paro and Punakha.
Equipment/extra items
Bring all possible protections against the sun, including a hat and sunglasses, warm and waterproof clothes as the climate is changeable, walking shoes or boots, camera film, insect repellant, a torch and a capacious water bottle (possibly the collapsible sort).
Luggage
The weight limit on Druk Air is 20kg for economy class and 30kg for business class. It’s possible to pay for excess baggage, but there is a chance that the luggage will have to be sent on the next flight. Also, there is not a great deal of cabin space; so carry-on luggage should be kept to a minimum.
Health
For the most accurate up-to-date information we recommend that you visit your National Health Service. You can of course also consult your doctor. The altitude in Bhutan is higher than many people are used to. Though most visitors will have no problem adjusting, altitude sickness may be a problem for certain people.
Visa
All visitors traveling to Bhutan are required to obtain a visa, except for Indian nationals holding a valid Indian passport. You cannot obtain a visa prior to arrival in Bhutan. Our ground handlers in Bhutan will complete the necessary documentation to ensure that you have visa clearance in order to board Druk Air. Please ensure you give us the following details:
01. Name as on passport
02. Date of birth
03. Place of birth
04. Date of passport issue
05. Date of passport expiry
06. Passport number
07. Place of issue of the passport
08. Permanent address
09. Occupation
10. Nationality
Be sure to give us your name and other information exactly as it appears on your passport, or Druk Air will not allow you to board the plane.
The cost of the visa is US$20 per person. You will pay this fee together with your trip payment. Your visa will then be issued and stamped in your passport.If you intend to travel via India, you will also need an Indian visa.
Travel to Bhutan
The recommended destination airport for this trip is Paro. It is a good idea to check the destination on the luggage tag that is stuck onto the ticket at the check-in desk; this helps lessen the possibility of luggage going astray. The recommended check-in time is 2 hours. For those who have requested a vegetarian meal on the plane, it is a good idea to reconfirm this at the check-in. Please collect your luggage before proceeding through Customs. In the unlikely event of finding on arrival that your luggage has gone astray en route, please inform us as soon as possible.
Meeting at the Airport
The meeting point is at the arrivals area of Paro airport.Our guide will receive you.
Guides
Footprint Bhutan: Gyurme Dorji www.footprintbooks.com
“Great traveling companions, constantly entertaining and they know what they’re talking about.” –Michael Plain
Bhutan Handbook: (Footprint 2004)
Practical information about the main tourist sights along with background information about history and culture.
Bhutan: (Lonely Planet 2002)
Good practical information and detailed section on trekking in Bhutan.
So Close to Heaven: Barbara Crosette (Random House 1995)
Profile of Bhutan and other kingdoms of the Himalayas.
Literature and Fiction
Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon: Journey into Bhutan: Katie Hickman (Phoenix 2002)
Author’s travels into Bhutan and the remote Eastern areas, usually closed off to foreigners.
Beyond the Sky and the Earth: A Journey into Bhutan: Jamie Zeppa (Riverhead Books 2000)
Story of a Canadian who went to teach in Bhutan and her experiences of the country.
Flora and Fauna
A Photographic Guide to the Bitrds of India and the Indian Subcontinent: Bikram Grewal(Princeton Uni Press 2003)
Comprehensive photographic guide covering the birds found in Bhutan.
Field Guide to the Birds of Bhutan: Carol Inskipp (Christopher Helm 2004)
Specialist guide to Bhutan covering all 555species found there.
We are delighted that you are considering traveling with us to Bhutan and we very much look forward to welcoming you. You may well have questions to ask and we feel that you will enjoy your holiday even more if you are well prepared for the country you are visiting.
Time zone
Bhutan is six hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, and 11 hours ahead of US Eastern Time.
Language
The official language of Bhutan is Dzongkha, though many regions have retained their own dialects due to their isolation. English is the medium of instruction in Bhutan, and it is widely spoken by those who have received education.
Currency
The national currency is the ngultrum (nu), which is equivalent to the Indian rupee (which is also legal tender). The ngultrum is not convertible outside the country so remember to change any remaining currency before departure.
Voltage
Electricity supply is 230V 50Hz, though anything requiring 240V will work, with 2- round-pin plugs.
Banks
You cannot purchase ngultrums prior to arriving in Bhutan, but you can easily buy them at Paro airport, Bhutan National Bank, the Bank of Bhutan, and at major hotels in Thimphu and Paro, all of which accept traveller’s cheque’s, and US dollars.
Opening hours are generally Monday-Friday 10.00-15.00. There are no ATMs in Bhutan. When visiting smaller towns, you should bring ngultrums or rupees for your purchases, as it may not be possible to exchange currency. In general, credit cards are not accepted in Bhutan, apart from a few high-end tourist shops.
Telephone
International telephone facilities are available in major towns. The international country code for Bhutan is 975.
Cultural considerations
The Bhutanese tend to be modest, so you might want to avoid revealing clothing (such as short skirts and tank tops). You cannot wear shorts while visiting monasteries, temples, and dzongs, though they’re fine for trekking.
Airports
Druk Air is the only airline that serves Bhutan. You can enter Bhutan via Druk Air from India, Bangladesh and Thailand. The only airport in Bhutan is in Paro.
Transport
There are no domestic airlines or trains in Bhutan, and all travel is by road, which are generally well maintained but travel can be slow along narrow winding mountain roads.
Insurance
We do not provide any form of insurance cover. However, it is a condition of booking that you have fully comprehensive insurance cover, including:
01. Cancellation/curtailment up to the cost of the holiday (preferably including flights).
02. Personal accident.
03. Medical and other expenses.
04. Hospital benefit.
05. Travel delay.
06. Missed departure.
07. Personal belongings.
08. Personal money and travellers cheques.
09. Loss of passport.
10. Personal liability.
1l. Legal expenses.
Whatever the insurance policy you have taken out, please read the documentation carefully. Please ensure also that you take it with you on your trip and refer to it in the case of any claim or emergency arising.
PERSONAL MEDICAL KIT
First Aid Kit
We carry a First Aid kit with us at all times. It is however a good idea to take a small supply of medicines for minor ailments. We suggest /anti blister ‘Second Skin’ or ‘Competed’ plasters, antiseptic cream, sunscreen, Chap stick, aspirin /paracetamol, throat lozenges, glucose sweets, Insect repellent, indigestion tablets etc.
You should keep plasters or Elastoplasts for blisters in your knapsack for immediate use.
Walking Aids
Trekking poles: These are becoming almost a standard piece of equipment for hill walkers, and a valuable safety item. They make walking less tiring. By using a stick/pole (or even two) you increase the number of points of contact with the ground, aiding balance on rough ground. They are also useful when fording streams, or descending steeper slopes.
They take a great deal of stress off the ankles, knees and lower back, making injuries less likely.
Dietary Supplements
Although we take care of all your main meals, you may prefer to carry some supplements to vary the diet. Some people like to carry freeze-dried meals and instant soups. You may also bring your own energizing drink, as well as high-energy muesli bars and chocolates etc.
|